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 D4-10 Restore Begins
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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/12/2010 :  18:26:48  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys. Yes, I'll be making the decals. I took the yellow vinyl for the hood decals to the PPG paint shop to get an exact color match blended for the rims. Pics will come slow, as this one is one piece at a time. This is the 1st tractor where I tore it completely apart, sandblasted or used electrolysis on every little piece. Takes a lot of time this way, but wanted it as 1st rate as I can get it.

Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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B-16_IC

USA
2823 Posts

Posted - 09/13/2010 :  22:22:15  Show Profile  Visit B-16_IC's Homepage Send B-16_IC a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Sure is going to be a first rate beauty when!

Life is all about paying. Pay attention, or pay the consequences, the choice is yours. Rich
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B10Dave

Canada
1916 Posts

Posted - 09/13/2010 :  22:26:38  Show Profile Send B10Dave a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Looking real good Daniel. You are going to be one very proud owner/restorer when it's done. As Roy would say. Carry on. Dave

Money can't buy you happiness.
It can however buy you a beer.
And that is close enough.

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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2010 :  16:08:17  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Got the white parts painted.






Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2010 :  16:09:42  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
All my pedals & linkages painted & installed, along with white parts put in place.




Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2010 :  16:14:07  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Throttle & choke cables installed, plus all dash components put in. Surprisingly the OE wiring is in super condition, so just re-taping where needed. Some early Bolens tractors used identical lock twist throttle cable assemblies, so ordered a new one. Choke cable assembly is original.




Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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B10Dave

Canada
1916 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2010 :  22:46:29  Show Profile Send B10Dave a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Poor little tractor. No more playing in the dirt. It's SHOW TIME!!!. Very nice work Daniel. Dave

Money can't buy you happiness.
It can however buy you a beer.
And that is close enough.

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Cvans

USA
4177 Posts

Posted - 09/19/2010 :  00:08:51  Show Profile Send Cvans a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Very nice work Daniel! I have never had what it takes to tear a tractor down and completely redo it like that. I get done working on one and I can't wait to take it out and play tractors with it. Also, thanks for all of the nice photos.



East Central South Dakota

The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not.
Thomas Jefferson


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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/25/2010 :  19:44:46  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
More under primer today. Using electrolysis is LOTS easier than sandblasting.

Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/25/2010 :  19:58:46  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I just realized I forgot to add I'm using electrolysis to strip the rust & paint. Works awesome! Very cheap to do too. 5lb of washing soda, baking soda, or cattle grade sodium bicarb to a 55 gallon drum of water. Put at least 3 or 4 anodes around outside of barrel. I use a 10amp battery charger. The positive goes to the anodes, negative to the suspended part to be stripped. The paint mostly stays on, but removes easily after pulling from the tank. On flat surfaces I use a putty knife & the paint rolls off easily. Wire brush for irregular areas & the like. Rust turns to a carbon black which the wire brush removes easily. I blow dry parts after brushing & washing with detergent, then blow dry & prime immediately.
The chassis rails are longer than barrel is deep, so did one end, then flipped it. I have an extra anode in the center as it is "line of sight" action. This extra one helps do the inside of the rails. You cannot allow part to touch anodes. I'm using rebar as you can see for the anodes, but most any steel will do.









Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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sleepy

195 Posts

Posted - 09/25/2010 :  20:55:03  Show Profile  Visit sleepy's Homepage Send sleepy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Dan I am curious about the process. Things like how long can you use the same solution,how do you rid of it and so on. Does it do a good job of getting to the bottom pits? Any other tips for this method. Alan
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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/25/2010 :  21:16:53  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Solution will last for weeks or months. Any crud will settle to the bottom. You can pour off the top & place on your yard if you want. The soda is usually welcomed by plants. The crud remaining in the bottom can be put in a container, then take to a center that accepts such things. It will just be rust, & oxides from the rust & paint. It gets to the bottom of pits for sure. Getting the steel brush into deep pits is a bit harder. I brush what I can, then dry. After that, a very light hit with a sandblaster gets the carbon right out. Most parts don't need any blasting at all though.
I hooked my DC welder to today's batch. Set it on 30amps for about 2hrs. Parts were ready to scrape/brush with much of the paint bubbled & falling off, but it was time to milk the cows, so just put the battery charger on it for tonight & will strip tomorrow. You can leave the parts in there as long as you want with the charger on it. It will not attack good steel, just the paint & rust. Using just the battery charger, I usually leave it in for 1 to 2 days. The more power, the less time it takes. The liquid will not hurt your skin at all. One thing...cold weather likely won't work with just a battery charger. The action needs warm water, but when using a welder on 30 to 40 amps, it will heat the water up real warm. So winter use is do-able with a welder if it hasn't frozen before you go to use it. Not sure what soda does to freeze point of the solution.

Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/26/2010 :  07:23:30  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
After today, there won't be much progress for the week. My local show is this coming Saturday, so gotta clean up some tractors & get ready. Won't be cleaning up the rusty D4-10 though. Want it as ugly as possible to try & bring home the "Ugliest GT" award! lol

Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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sleepy

195 Posts

Posted - 09/30/2010 :  10:12:37  Show Profile  Visit sleepy's Homepage Send sleepy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Dan does it make any difference if the welder is an ac model or a dc model? The lowest setting on mine is 40 amps. The anodes just set in the solution and are connected together, and as long as the part to be stripped does not touch the anode everything is alright correct. Thanks Alan
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olcowhand

USA
5110 Posts

Posted - 09/30/2010 :  11:24:33  Show Profile  Visit olcowhand's Homepage Send olcowhand a Private Message  Reply with Quote
ONLY DC! Correct on all else.

Daniel in Ky -- So much to do, so little time!




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